CosmeticOBS: What is Osmolya® and what market need does this active ingredient address?

Mélanie Serre: Osmolya® is a water-soluble extract of Iresine weberbaueri, a plant native to Peru, also known as flor blanca. It is a highly resilient plant that grows in arid environments with low organic matter content. To survive and cope with the stresses of its environment, it naturally produces betaine. It is this resilience that inspired the concept behind the active ingredient. Osmolya® acts on cellular osmoregulation, hence its name, to hydrate the skin and hair. What’s interesting is its dual application: for both skin and hair.

CosmeticOBS: What is the science behind this active ingredient, and how do you demonstrate its effectiveness?

Mélanie Serre: The mechanism of action is based on cellular osmoregulation. Throughout the day, the skin is exposed to environmental aggressors (UV rays, pollution, temperature fluctuations) that induce osmotic stress. This water imbalance causes water to escape from the cells via osmosis: keratinocytes shrink, their structure is altered, and the skin barrier becomes more permeable. Osmolya® activates the response to osmotic stress by stimulating the production of three osmolytes transporters (BGT1 for betaine, TAUT for taurine, and SMIT for …